Monday, April 28, 2014

self-drafted yoke top from Japanese girls pattern

Here's the front.

And the back.

I drafted a quick pattern for this top when I was supposed to be packing for Brazil. That's how I deal with packing panic. I make new stuff that I don't have time to make. Also I order hail mary clothes online. It's a disorder. Anyway. It's made from two different Amy Butler voiles. Very light and airy fabric.

This is the much-loved smock pattern that I used as a base for my top. It's the one I've made the most from Girls Style Book, seen here, here, here and here on my girls. Nowadays my gargantugirls are out of the size range of this book (sob).

The construction of the top is pretty simple, a yoke on top and a gathered bottom. The sleeve openings flow directly into the side seams. I deleted the ruffles, pockets, and bias ties for mine. I toyed briefly with the idea of adding more grown-up looking square pockets but then realized I was running too short on time (yes, this realization does come eventually) and I needed to get on with it.

 The front and back yoke.

The skirt, for lack of a better word.

To draft the adult-sized version I compared the child-sized smock pattern with my Wiksten tank pattern and then just eyeballed the amount I'd have to size the smock pattern up to fit me. It was a lot of guesswork. I sketched the new pattern on freezer paper and made a muslin, which turned out pretty well. It was a bit too wide overall and I decided to shorten the length of my final top to be hip length rather than mid-thigh. I may make another one with the original thigh length to see if I like that too.

Turns out I could have just used one piece for the yoke back instead of two because the neck opening was large enough to slip over my head without a closure. Oh well. This one has a snap.

I finished the neck with bias binding turned to the inside. 

I wonder if it would be cute to make the front hem like a frowny face instead of a smiley face (like this). Hmm. I also wonder if making the sleeves come away from the side seam a bit instead of flowing right in would make the fit more lady-friendly. Now that I have a base pattern I can try other things. I just found this cute top tutorial also by Cotton + Curls; looks like a similar shape and very cute on her!


  1. I love this top! The fabrics is amazing in its colors and patterns! As I have got no idea about sewing, this top is ideal as it is for me!

    1. Hindustanka, thanks so much! Haha, I wasn't sure about putting two such busy patterns together but I like how it turned out.

  2. Good job Larissa,very elegant! The pattern you used isn´t for a top to fit only a little girl? Thanks. rosa

    1. hi, Rosa! Yes, the original pattern was for little girls, and I graded it up to fit me!

  3. oh Larissa could you tell me briefly, how to do that' I´ve some girly patterns i would love to turn clothes to me... Very grateful...

    1. Hey, Rosa, I compared it to another pattern I have that fits me and tried to size it up based on that. It was trial and error. If you read through the post text it will tell you in more detail.


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