lining for my Wiksten tunic

So I did end up lining my Nani IRO Wiksten tunic (with very purple lining fabric). You know, the one that kept crawling up my leggings. The lining makes a huge difference, not just with the embarrassing cling but also improves the drape. It was well worth the effort, even though lining it after it was already made was more of a pain.

I simply cut out another front and back from the pattern in lining fabric, then cut off about .75 inch allowance all around the neck and armholes so it wouldn't show underneath. I also cut off an inch from the hem. After I sewed the front and back together, I finished all the raw edges by zig zagging them with matching thread. Simple simple:

Then to attach it to the inside of the tunic I hand sewed it wrong sides facing just in certain spots: at the shoulder seams, underarms, and two spots close to the hem on the side seams. Voila. I will now shock you with a real life picture of my school room:

Sorry for the blurry mirror shots and also for the smeary handprints that are featured in the foreground. It reminds me of a magnet I saw the other day: 'Please excuse the mess but we live here.'

what I'm up to

I am making stuff, just nothing finished to show yet.  We've been housebound since Tuesday (Atlanta Snowpocalypse of 2014) so it was nice to venture into town this morning and go get my Jazz on. (Oh, it's OK. Go ahead and laugh. There were no leg warmers present though.) Still some patches of ice on the roads, but it's mostly clear. But my poor Thing 1 busted right on her behindy on a stealth patch of ice on the way inside, bless her. You know how fast that happens. Swoop! went her legs and bang! right on her tuckus. Ouch.

Anyhoo, I couldn't resist purchasing this beautiful January fat quarter bunch recently from Anna Maria Horner's shop and now I must make a quilt. Yes, yes, why must you point out that I've said this many times before? But I've actually started piecing this together and we are talking REALLY simple here, basically I cut each fat quarter in half and sewed contrasting pieces together. I will add some strips of white and be done with it. I'd like it to be a living room throw. I'm determined to actually follow through with this so I can build my confidence. I have a walking foot and a vision.

I also made another Wiksten tank, only this one is tunic length. The fabric is Nani IRO double gauze, which is normally great, but unfortunately it sticks like glue to my leggings and tucks itself in my crotch as I walk. Not a good look. So now I am trying to put in a slinky lining after the fact, which is never a good scenario. Still puzzling over that one. I tried to get away with a partial lining but it pulls in an unattractive way, so I may just have to do a full lining and tack it to the shoulder and underarm seams. So now I need to purchase more lining fabric. Ergh.

I'm also working on the Partridge and Pear pattern and testing it with Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy (yes, that's quite a mouthful) thanks to designer Wendi Gratz and her helpful tips. What a fabulous way to do embroidery with no tracing required. This could be life changing.

I made a top

 (NEW LOOK 6356, view A)

My stash is kinda ridiculous (hearing a distant resounding "YES" from husband). I'm an impulse fabric buyer, so I am trying to redeem myself. I've had this AMH Innocent Crush voile for like ever. The hand is like butter -- it feels so silky and slinky and drapey it's hard to believe it's cotton. The threads are super fine. But it's not see-through, which is a definite plus. I loved sewing with it! And I happened to have a matching zipper too.

I only had a yard of the voile, so the project had to be small. Voila, sleeveless shell. (Haha get it. Voile-lah.) Even so I barely made it. I didn't even have enough fabric left over to make the facings for the neck and sleeves, so I cut them out of some gray shirting I had on hand. I think it looks nice. Actually I cut out two sets of facings because I added interfacing to the first set according to the instructions, then realized it was too stiff and did the second set with no interfacing, which worked fine since the shirting has a little more body than the voile.

Nice little slits in the sides. Now prepare yourself for the next slightly blurry photo. I don't have on the proper underpinning because it was too much trouble and also too cold to switch out of my sport bra to a real one. Also my makeup and hair specialist failed to show, so that part was mercifully cropped out.

The maizy yellow color is not that kind to my skin tone, so I will likely pair this with a cardigan to add contrast. Nnnnot sure why I went for the yellow. But this would look really great on you, Robyn! I should have gotten the purpley one. Ooh, look it's on sale.

Pattern was in my stash too, an oldie. Cheap pattern and I had to do a lot of mods to get it to fit my short waisted, wide shouldered bod. The fit is still not quite right. Something in the back is weird. I'm doing Jazzercise again (stop laughing at once) so maybe when my muffin top gets smaller it will adjust the fit. I can dream. And do not believe the "easy2hour" dangling carrot on the packaging there. Perhaps that would be true if you were on a planet that has 120 minutes in an hour and also you were in a child-proof sewing bubble with snacks. Hey, I just saw this really cute one by little miss gee! I love it on her. Great colors.

lining your woven tank

Woven tanks look great in lightweight fabrics. However, lightweight fabric combined with a light color can be a bit too revealing. Solution: Add a lining!

It's an easy mod for a woven tank pattern:

1) When cutting out the front and back of your tank, also cut out a front and back in a featherweight cotton muslin (or you could use a polyester lining material if you want it to feel cool and slippery).

2) Trim about .75 inch to 1 inch off of the hem of the lining front and back. You want your finished lining to end up a bit shorter than your tank. (If your tank pattern calls for french seams, trim the extra seam allowance off of your tank and lining pieces and just go with regular overlocked seams since your lining will hide your seams on the inside)

3) Proceed to follow the pattern instructions to sew your tank together. Whatever you do to sew the tank, do the same to the lining, including finishing the seams. Then hem the lining in just the same way you hem your tank. Now you have two identical tank WIPs, one in your real fabric and one in the lining fabric that is slightly shorter at the hem.

4) Turn your tank wrong side out and your lining right side out. Slip the tank inside the lining so that the wrong side of the tank is against the wrong side of the lining.

5) Pin them together at the neck and armholes, lining up the shoulder and side seams. The raw edges should be aligned. If the lining overlaps in some spots give it a little trim.

6) Machine baste them together at the neck and armholes within the seam allowance.

7) Now you can turn the whole thing right side out and continue on with the pattern instructions to add the bias binding. This photo shows a finished armhole:

The finished hems will be offset by just enough to keep your lining from peeking out:

Now you can wear your lined tank with confidence, and keep your underwear color to yourself.

in which I sew a large number of woven tanks (or, Grainline vs Wiksten)

The Holland Academy for Young Ladies is on summer break and I've been attempting to sew myself some clothes. To keep my spirits up I've been trying to make it all about The Process. Well, you can't wear The Process under a cute cardigan. So I guess I'm really all about Results. I'm happy to say my woven tanks have been a success!

I purchased the Tiny Pocket Tank pattern from Grainline and made a few, and then became curious about how the fit compared to the Wiksten Tank pattern. After staring at a lot (no, A LOT) of samples of both tanks online I decided just to purchase the Wiksten pattern and try it too. You can never have too many layering pieces, in my opinion.

Well, I love them both! Here's a quick comparison for you if you are wondering what's the difference:

L) Tiny Pocket Tank, R) Wiksten Tank Top (Ignore that seam down the back of the tank on the left -- I ran out of fabric!)

Overview:

Both patterns produce nicely finished, airy, woven tank tops with deep scoop necklines, optional  chest pockets and curved hemlines. There are no closures required for either pattern, both styles slip on over your head. Yay!

Both have clear written instructions that are just right for a person who knows basic sewing techniques and terms. Both patterns come in the form of downloadable PDFs and the pattern pieces are tiled to letter sized pages and taped together at the guidelines.

If you want great results from either pattern, I don't recommend using quilting cotton. I did my trial runs in cotton, since I have so much on hand in my stash. Mid-weight cotton does make a nice looking woven tank, but the drape won't be the bestest. My favorites so far to use for these tanks: double gauze, lawn, chambray and linen blend. I haven't tried rayon, silk or similar, but I'm sure those would be wonderful.

Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank:

Grainline Tiny Pocket Tanks
(from L to R: cotton, chambray, cotton, double gauze)

Grainline's pattern (sizes 0-18) features darts in the front bodice and a handy technique to achieve smooth and professional looking bias-bound necklines and armholes (which is also featured as a tutorial on her blog). There are plenty of line drawings to illustrate the steps. There is also a tutorial on her blog to extend the tank into a dress.

 Darts in the Grainline bodice make for a nice curve around the bust.

Wiksten Tank Top:

Wiksten Tank Tops
(From L to R, linen blend, lawn, double gauze) 

Wiksten's pattern (sizes XS-XL) features french seams (ooh la la!), which means no raw edges will be visible on the inside of the tank - a nice touch in an otherwise basic garment. It includes a dress length option within the pattern. There are plenty of photographs and sketches to illustrate the steps.

 No raw edges on the inside of the Wiksten tank, very nice.

My Process:

Keepin' it real for your reference. I am 5 feet 6 inches tall, 135 lbs DSGV*, with broad, straight shoulders, average size bust, and a lamentably short torso, so I knew ahead of time I'd have to make adjustments in the patterns. I really think a couple of inches were taken from my spine and added to my toes on accident. I usually have to make a few mods to any purchased pattern, so that is no reflection on the quality of these patterns. I used my bust measurement to choose the pattern size and both worked out fine.
*Doctor's Scale Gravitational Vortex

Grainline dry run, size 8: I sewed the dry run in mid-weight cotton fabric I found at the bottom of my stash, not the ideal material, but OK for a test. Overall the fit was size appropriate but pulled a bit across my chest. Because of my short torso and chest, the length was too long and the front scoop neckline was way too hubba hubba (though my husband gave it the thumbs up). Because of my straight shoulders, the back neckline stood away from my back a bit.

Grainline wearable muslin: it shrunk a bit after laundering, but you get the idea.

Grainline Mods: 

• Raised neckline in front a LOT (1.5 inches)
• Lowered the neckline in back
• Shortened the torso overall
• Reduced angle of darts a bit and added a bit more room under the armscye
• Made angle of the shoulder seam more shallow to compensate for my straight shoulders
• Took a wedge off the back fold line to keep the neck from standing off my back (Got that idea here. Thanks, Rae!) 
• In addition to the instructions, I added stay stitching to the neck and armholes so I could try it on without fear of pulling it out of shape before I added the bias binding. 

Wiksten wearable muslin, still some tweaking to do.

Wiksten dry run, size M: Fabric look familiar? I made a quickie true muslin, then adjusted some things and made a second try. I still had some cotton left from the duvet cover I thrifted years ago, so I used that for the wearable test run. Overall the fit was size appropriate, and I went ahead and raised the neckline an inch even before the muslin because I knew it would be too low. I had the same fit issues as with the Grainline tank: overall length a bit too long, and the back neckline standing away from my neck.

Wiksten Mods: 
I did the same mods as with the Grainline tank above, with these small additions:

• In addition to the Wiksten instructions, I used the same Grainline method to grade, notch and understitch the neck and armholes.
• I really dislike turning up a large hem on a curve, so I trimmed off some of the hem allowance and sewed a narrow hem instead.

Let me tell you, seeing the same armhole go by four different times under your needle (1-stay stitch, 2-attach the bias, {then clip the allowance} 3-understitch, 4-stitch bias down) can be a little frustrating and seems like overkill at the time, but it is very worth the effort. The result is a flat, smooth finish that doesn't loudly proclaim 'homemade'. If you've ever been frustrated by a bias bound neck or armscye that stands straight out from your body, then you should try this method.

My Results:

So I took about one thousand pictures of myself to model my new tanks, while my family looked on and mocked me (and I felt increasingly ridiculous). What to do with my hands? Should I look away? Gaaaah the timer is almost up! *click* Do over. I have a newfound respect for those who do this on a regular basis. I really need to buy a tripod and a remote. These were taken on my back screened porch, and it was humid, so please forgive the hair.

On the left is how the tank looks by itself, on the right is how I'll most likely wear it. I love me some cardigans. The parade of woven tanks:

I've laundered this one and I notice the pulling is back under the arms. No matter, I'll be wearing it as a layering piece mostly. I might go up a size on future Grainlines and see if that helps.

Bought this cotton ever so long ago and I'm so glad to have used it. I've actually made two of these, but the first one wasn't lined and the white fabric was too transparent. I remade it with a featherweight cotton lining. Much nicer! This is the only one that I added a pocket to, just because it needed more gray/black right there. The teeny pocket is so cute.

My first try with double gauze! I fell in love with this Fuccra when I saw it a while back, and hoarded it in my stash. I only had a meter so I had to put a seam in the back to make it work. Double gauze has a nice drape and a casual, crinkly look, but it can fray and stretch while you work with it. Stay stitching was a great idea. I bound the neck and armholes with a sturdier cotton to give it some body.

First time sewing with Liberty lawn! This is one of my favorite prints, Wiltshire. The fabric came out of the dryer practically wrinkle free with hardly any raveling, and took only a second to press. A joy to cut. Very easy to work with, but be sure to use a small needle. The lawn makes a more billowy looking tank. I might try a size down if I make another one in lawn.

The. Dreamiest. Fabric. Kaufman Essex linen blend. The yardage felt a bit heavy so I was hesitant about making it a top, but it has such a floppy drape it worked out great. I can tell this tank is going to be a wardrobe staple. Love the nubbly finish of the fabric. Wow. I need a haircut.

More Nani IRO double gauze. Love the colors of this one, such a fun print! I have more double gauze and I'm excited to make something else with it. Kind of a goofy expression for that last one!

I've actually sewn a couple more, but you get the idea. I'm going to love having so many options for layering. Not having a standard body shape can make sewing for yourself a trial, but I'm going to take what I've learned about alterations for my body type and go forward with more confidence. Now on to conquer more patterns...

what I'm up to

 My first experience sewing with double gauze. It's lovely. Whole lotta sewing for me going on up in here. I have a bunch of woven tanks to show you soon, all sewn from my stash. I just need some good light and some good hair.

Washi muslin! I'm on a roll. This pattern has been on my to do list for like ever. Now I'm ready to cut out the whole thing from real fabric (but cheap fabric, just in case).

here we go.

The Tova. At this writing it's all taped together and cut out from some cheap broadcloth I had on hand for a wearable muslin. I have high hopes. Despite the number of times the word 'ease' is used in the instructions. 'Ease' scares me.

summer reruns: bootcut to skinny jeans tutorial

Here's another oldie but goodie, a tutorial from March 2010:
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I've been admiring so many in the blogosphere that are taking old/unwearable clothes and remaking them into new, beautiful things. I'd really like to try a pretty ruffle shirt like the one my BFF made from her husband's old dress shirt. But first things first, as I have a growing mountain of clothing in my craft room that needs fixing or updating.

My most urgent need is jeans to wear tucked inside my newish lovely boots. I didn't own a pair of skinny jeans until a couple of weeks ago. After I bought one pair I got the idea to convert my old bootcut jeans (which are too short now anyway) into skinny jeans from some similar transformations I've seen on several great YouTube videos.

People, this is the easiest wardrobe revamp you could hope for. Really. It takes like twenty minutes and can save you some serious jean money.

This is the process in a nutshell:

1) Turn your old pair of bootcut jeans inside out and lay them down flat. Lay your favorite pair of skinny jeans on top.


2) Find out which seam on your old jeans has the pretty topstitching. Align the edges of the skinny legs along the bootcut seam that is topstitched (this could be the outside seam or the inside seam). You don't want to take in the seam that is topstitched. It will look funny since you can't replicate the topstitching. You want to take in the side that has a regular seam so your new one will blend in. As it happens, the pair I was working with didn't have topstitching on either side.

3) Once it is all aligned carefully and you have the seams nice and flat, trace along the edge of the skinny leg to mark your new seam line on the bootcut leg. Pin in place, taking care to match up the hem of your old jeans nicely.


4) Using a heavy duty needle on your machine (really. don't skip this step), sew your new seams on each leg. Now before you trim and finish the new seams, try the jeans on to be sure they fit the way you like. You may need to make minor adjustments before you finish and press your seams.

Erm. The girls make up their own beds. Good for them.
Bad for photo styling.

Voila. You really can't tell where my new seam starts and the old one ends. Just saved myself some money. Oh, yeah.

summer reruns: make a quickie skirt lining

Another rerun from the blog time-machine, a post from March 2010:
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 Closeup of the lining sewn to the skirt facing.
Sorry about the purple thread.

Closeup of hem of lining inside the skirt. It's just overlocked, not hemmed.

I have a perfect straight dark denim skirt from the Gap that I love, but every time I wear it with tights, the denim catches on my knees. The visual effect being that as I walk, the skirt also walks. Up my thighs.

Of course I have a half slip that I wear to avoid this, but it adds bulk at the waist and doesn't solve the problem completely because it is not the ideal length and tends to ride up as well. I find myself constantly either trying to reach in and pull the slip back down (nice) or grabbing the hem of the skirt off my tights. Not a great way to look all ladylike.

I had a eureka after I made this dress with a lining. Why not just line my favorite skirt and solve this annoying problem for good? {smack of hand on forehead} I can't believe I didn't do this a long time ago.

It was so easy. I can now wear the grabbiest, knubbliest tights under the skirt with no problems.

NOTE: I make no claim that the below is the correct way to line a garment professionally. As a matter of fact, it would probably make any self-respecting tailor feel pretty queasy. No, this is all about Easy, Fast, and Solving The Problem Already. Not about tailoring excellence.
1) Lay your straight or A-line skirt inside out on the floor and measure it across the widest part (this is probably the hem). Double this number. That is your skirt's circumference. Now add an inch, for seam allowance. This is value [A].

2) Now find the bottom of the waistband facing. Measure from this part to your hem. Now subtract a half an inch. This is so your lining won't hang below your hem. This is value [B].

3) Cut a piece of lining fabric that is [A] wide and [B] long. This is slippery stuff, I know. I found it was more manageable to lay it on the carpet* to cut than on my worktable, because it kept slithering off my worktable.
*Listen, I have builder grade el-cheapo carpet in my house, so scissors can't do much damage. If you have costly looped Berber, then for Pete's sake get back up on your worktable!

4) Pin it right sides together and sew the back seam with 1/2 inch seam allowance, locking your stitches and leaving the seam open the appropriate length to accommodate your skirt's zipper. If your skirt has a slit, leave an opening to correspond to that also. Trim and finish your seam.

5) Now overlock or zig zag all the unfinished edges of your lining piece. I have an overlock stitch on my machine that I use for this. (I didn't turn any nice hems for the lining. Remember? Easy. Fast. Not excellent. Of course, you always have that hem option, just remember to add the hem allowance in before you cut.) Now, iron the whole lining on the synthetic setting.

6) Turn your machine to the longest stitch length and sew around the top of your lining to create a gathering stitch. Sew two lines of this gathering stitch if you tend to break your thread when gathering.

7) Turn your skirt wrong side out. Pin the lining wrong sides together to the waistband facing at the zipper, side seams, and the middle of the front. Draw up your gathering stitches to fit, pinning as you go. The gathering doesn't have to be all perfectly distributed. No one will see it unless your suitcase pops open in baggage claim, and if that happens you'll likely be more focused on chasing your underwear around the conveyor belt.

8) Sew the lining by hand to your facing with a whip stitch, catching a small bit of facing and then the lining below the overlock/zig zag stitches. Take care to only sew through the layer that makes up the facing and not the outside layer, or your stitches will show on the outside of your skirt.

9) Tack down the lining around your zipper with a few stitches, and do the same for your slit if you have one. You can also anchor your lining to your side seams with a few stitches close to the hem if you like.

Like I said. Quick. Easy. Done and done!

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Click your heels three times and *ding* now you are back in August 2011. I've used this slap it on method with other skirts. I love not having to wear a slip with tights. And I so looooooooove to wear tights in the winter. No shaving necessary! (Hmmm. I should probably pretend I'm only joking here.) Ha ha! Just kidding. My legs are never stubbly. Ha ha. Yeah. I also have this same grabby legs issue with knit tunics over leggings. I keep thinking that a wide satin ribbon hand sewn around the hem at the bottom of the tunics might fix the this annoying problem but I haven't tried it yet.