hey, Mikey!

(Let me say a huge THANK YOU for the prayers and well-wishes for my flu-riddled girlies. They are doing MUCH better, no fevers, and now they are bored and stir crazy, always a good sign. H1N1 seemed pretty much like any other flu, 'cept maybe higher fevers and shorter lived. Michael and I are still feeling well, so thank you, Lord!)

Here's my version of a boy Molly Monkey. I've seen several really nice ones in the flickr pool, including ties and overalls and tennis shoes, and one kind reader even took the trouble to send me the instructions for a boy monkey she did herself!

I tend to be girl-centric with my crafting, for obvious reasons, but as it happens my beautiful niece, Erin, is having a baby boy in October. Here was the perfect opportunity to develop the Mikey Monkey I've had patiently waiting in my brain almost since I made the Molly Monkey for Thing 2.


I had a lot of fun coming up with these tennis shoes. I modeled them after the Converse-like shoes I drew for Robyn's baby announcement. Michael saw them and said, "Tennis shoes...with a shirt and tie?" But that's just how Mikey rolls. Oops, I think I still see some purple disappearing marker on the shoe. I was on a tight deadline, as usual.


Close-up of his shirt and tie. These are Erin's nursery colors, and the I think the tie fabric is also included in the baby quilt that her talented mom (my sister Leigh Ann) made her. I love love love the colors Erin chose for the baby's room. It's all robin egg blues, browns, greens, with touches of yellow and orange.


Here's Mikey without his newsboy hat and shoes. Since he'll be in the baby's room, I went ahead and sewed the hat and shoes on after this picture, so they wouldn't get lost. His linen short pants look a bit like jodhpurs to me. Which was unintentional, but I don't mind it. Maybe he is a polo player.


I cut a hole in the back of the tie to turn it more easily, so of course I had to glue a label over the slit. Fancy Monkey is an exclusive line of designer ties for equestrian newsboy monkey types.

To sum up, in order to transform the Molly pattern to a Mikey pattern:

1. I altered the Molly beret to get the newsboy hat,
   
2. added a tie and collar,
   
3. divided the torso to make a waistband for the pants,
   
4. switched the socks to legs and the legs to pants,
   
5. and made the tennis shoes.
   

Of course you could skip the tie and collar completely and give him a t-shirt and jeans instead. There's a lot of possibilities.

If there is some interest out there in having the new Mikey pattern pieces so you can make boy versions from your Molly pattern without the guesswork, let me know. I can make the new pattern available in my shop at some point.

On a sour note, a fellow crafter informed me recently that she saw my Molly pattern on a craft site being passed off as their own design. She had the same experience with them with one of her own designs. They had indeed made .gifs out of my pattern pieces, deleted my text, and placed their logo on everything, including a photo image taken by me. Pretty cheeky. I guess that is the peril of a free pattern and the honor system. I've contacted them and requested them to remove it, but so far no response to me, although they have removed the offending page. I also recognized some other 'borrowed' tutorials there, some Martha Stewart images among them. That seems a little foolhardy. If you've posted a free tutorial, you might want to check it out.

(sigh of relief) don't look, Lori.

After much angst and re-doing, Lori's messenger bag is {finally} {thankfully} {for betterly or for worsely} done. I have a reasonable expectation that her surprise won't be ruined by this post, because I'm pretty sure none of my family reads my blog. Besides you, Chelsea. ha. I'll be giving this to her in a week or so when I'm in H-town again.


I'm finally pleased with it. My husband has been shaking his head at me for weeks, saying stuff like 'how many hours are you going to sink into this thing anyway?'. He doesn't understand the tortured artistic journey within the soul, obviously. The other night as he watched me rip off the bias binding that I decided I didn't like, he quipped "I sure hope she likes this bag." And I replied sweetly, "IT'S NOT ABOUT HER ANYMORE" as I stabbed the flap with the seam ripper.


Anyhoo, it's done. Why did I line it with green? I think it has to do something with the fact that I cut the lining out at the beginning of the process when there was a completely different flap design and also green bias binding. But I like it. Or maybe that's just the apathy speaking.

I added a little snap key holder on the inside because it is so useful. Also, because it would cover up the unplanned tuck in my lining. I'm happy to report that this snap experience was stress free.

Instead of just trucking along from memory like usual, I tried to follow my own tutorial for the messenger bag to double check it. I didn't deviate from my tutorial to construct this bag except for these three things:

1. I used bias binding for the flap, so I trimmed off the flap seam allowance to do that. I didn't have to turn the flap.
   
2. Since my pockets were not lined with a contrast color this time I cut out one big piece for the pockets and folded it in half to sew together instead of having two separate pieces.
3. I made the strap a bit longer for my sister, at her request.
   

The only thing I ran into that I ended up changing on my tutorial was to make the flap .5 inch shorter. I didn't change it for this bag, it works ok if you are careful to measure correctly. Still, the bag flap comes a wee bit too close to the bottom of the bag for comfort, and I thought there should be some room built in for error. That is now changed on the tutorial, so update your flap measurement to 12 x 13.5 inches.

anthro tea towel and napkin pillows

tea towel pillow on the left, napkin pillow on the right.

In the tradition of the Anthro placemat pillows, here are two more methods to create home decor from table linens. This is a much more affordable option for me than actually buying the pillows. I drool buckets over most everything in Anthropologie's home decor section but can't get past the price tag, even with the devil on my shoulder.

I really have to give credit for this way of thinking to my bosom friend Robyn, who was the one who showed me years ago how to repurpose placemats into pillows and to use tablecloths for shower curtains and stuff like that. She opened a whole new world for me. I've even used place mats to make a really non-cheesy looking (promise) window valance.

Incidentally, once you are addicted to this method, another great place to get beautiful table linens on sale is here. I had placemat pillows from C&B on my couch for a few years before I made these latest.

Now, on to the particulars, if you'd like to make some pillows like these.

front of the napkin pillow

back of the napkin pillow

For the napkin pillow you need:

1. a gorgeous square fabric napkin that you scored on sale, 20 x 20 inches. Okay the sale is not strictly necessary, but it is more satisfying.
2. coordinating fabric for the back, two rectangles that are 20 x 16-ish inches
3. an existing 18 x 18 inch pillow (don't worry -- this is a removable cover, so you don't have to sacrifice the existing pillow)

Step one: Along ONE long side of both pieces of backing fabric, sew a narrow hem. If you are not familiar with a narrow hem, you just press over 1/2 inch of fabric toward the wrong side along the edge, then fold under half of that again and edgestitch it. I don't bother pressing the second fold, I just fold it under with my finger as I'm sewing it down.


Step two: Lay your napkin down right side up, and align your backing pieces on top of it, right sides down, with the raw edges at the edge of the napkin, and the narrow hems running across and overlapping in the middle of the napkin (your backing pieces overlap to create a slit to stuff your pillow in or take it out again). Pin everything securely. I pinned along the edges of my slit as well, to keep things in place as I sewed.


Step three: Sew all the way around the edge of the square, being sure to backstitch to secure your stitches. It was preferable for me to sew along the inside of the hem that already existed on the napkin so I could save the pretty design in the corners of the napkin. That gave me about a 1/2 seam allowance all around, which yields a cover that is about 19 inches square -- a slightly relaxed fit for an 18" pillow, and no need to trim the excess seam allowance.

If you prefer a snug fit for your cover, sew a scant 1 inch hem all around instead. If you do this method, I recommend you also trim the excess seam allowance and finish the raw edges with overlocking stitches or pinking shears.


Step four: Turn it right side out through the slit and press it. Now stuff it with your existing pillow and admire your pillow makeover prowess.

This method is of course adaptable depending on the size of your napkin and the size of your existing pillow, as long as your napkin is slightly larger than your pillow. If it isn't, you could get really creative and piece some fabric strips around your napkin to make it the right size, now couldn't you? Yes, you could!

front of the tea towel pillow

Or I guess this could be the front of the tea towel pillow. I love both sides.

For the tea towel pillow you need:

1. a pretty embroidered tea towel that you couldn't resist, and that NO one in their right mind would use to wipe up anything.
2. floofy ball trim for two sides, optional
3. bag of polyfil stuffing

Step one: Fold your tea towel in half, aligning the short sides. Cut it in half.


Step two: If you are using ball trim, glue or baste stitch it along the short edges of the right side of one piece, balls turned inward. I used fabric glue.


Step three: Pin the two pieces right sides together, making sure your little poofballs are out of the seam. Beginning in the middle of the bottom long side, sew a quarter inch hem all the way around, leaving about four inches unsewn on the bottom edge for stuffing. Turn it right side out and press.



Step five: Stuff that baby full of polyfil. Use small handfuls of stuffing and make sure you stuff the corners first, then the middle. When the desired firmness is reached, pin the opening closed with the quarter inch hem folded inside and hand sew it together with a whipstitch in coordinating thread. You are done, Pillow Master.

seen recently in the flickr pools

Katy Kitty by LemonCadet

Baby Binky Bunny (with a tiny knitted bunny pal of her own design) by lille-ursus

Princess Fairy tooth pillow by rosalyn 119

Molly Monkey twins by Jane Little

Baby Binky Bunny by zaffrondeluxe

Katy Kitty by freelance monster

Molly Monkey by i am karin, and here's her blog post

Zombie(!) tooth pillow by Marni Molina

If you would like to see more creative endeavors, check out all three mmmcrafts flickr pools, and be sure to add your own mmmcrafts projects, I love to see them:

mmmcrafts Projects
Katy Kitty
Molly Monkey

If you are interested in the patterns for these projects, this is where you'll find them:
Baby Binky Bunny
Katy Kitty
Molly Monkey (free)
Tooth Pillow (free)

the basic messenger bag

Jamie's on the left, Chelsea's on the right. This tutorial does not include the flap designs, alas.

As promised, here is the basic bag tutorial like the one I made Jamie and Chelsea. I have not included the flap designs, just the basic bag. That will have to be another post. Be creative and come up with your own flap variations. Then show me! Jamie's was applique only, and Chelsea's was a combo of piecing and applique. I have another one to sew up for my sister Lori's birthday and I'm going to do some patchwork this time.

I considered doing a PDF of the pattern pieces, but they are mostly too big to fit on letter sized paper, and pretty easy to make yourself if you have a ruler, a 6.5 inch circle, and a coffee cup on hand. The coffee cup is to hold some hot coffee. Obviously.

Click on the image below to see or print a larger diagram for measurements. This is not to scale.


YARDAGE: Assuming the width is 45 inches, you'll need about a yard each of the outside and the liner, plus your interfacing if you are using it.

THE FINISHED BAG DIMENSIONS, EXCLUDING THE STRAP:
about 12 inches x 12 inches x 3 inches wide at the bottom.

1/4 INCH SEAM ALLOWANCE IS INCLUDED IN THE MEASUREMENTS. If you are more comfortable with a larger seam allowance, be sure to add that when you draw your pattern.

Draw and cut out all your paper pattern pieces. Draw a rectangle for the flap, then use a 6.5 inch circle to trace the curved corners on the flap. I have an obliging embroidery hoop that is just the right size.

Now trace and cut out your fabric.

NOTE: If your main fabric is not a heavy, purse-worthy weight you should consider adding a fairly stiff fusible interfacing on the strap, outside body, and outside flap pieces. Cut out the interfacing in the same size as those pieces, and iron it on according to the manufacturer's instructions. But remember, you are going to have to turn this bag through a 5 inch hole, so the interfacing shouldn't be too stiff for that.

NOTE YET AGAIN: Even if I don't specifically mention it below, you'll be of course pressing and finishing your seams in your preferred method for each step.

1) Strap. Press it in half, right sides together, longwise so you have a 2 x 45 inch piece. Sew it closed along the long edge. Turn it right side out (use a hugemongous safety pin like I do to help with this. Or if you have a fancy tube-turner, by all means, get that thing in action). Press, then edgestitch down both sides. So now you have a lovely strap with raw ends.


2) Outside Pocket. Align the outside pocket pieces right sides together and sew all around, leaving a couple inches open on the bottom side to turn it. Snip the corners. Turn and press. Pin it to the right side of the body piece, centered side to side and about 3 inches down from what will be the top of the bag. Edgestitch it on the sides and bottom, leaving the top open (obviously) and backstitching at the beginning and end to reinforce.


3) Inside Pocket. Now do the same thing to assemble your inside pocket, but pin it to the right side of the body lining fabric, centered from side to side and about 4 inches down from what will be the top of the bag. Edgestitch it on the sides and bottom, leaving the top open and backstitching at the beginning and end to reinforce. Then stitch again down the center from top to bottom to create two little pockets.


4) Flap. Now is the time to do all your embellishing of the flap on the outside piece BEFORE YOU SEW THE FLAP TOGETHER.

(Musical interlude while this creative wave crashes over you.)

Once your outside flap piece is appliqued or pieced or whatevered, you are ready to proceed.

5) Align the (fabulous) flap outside and lining pieces right sides together. Sew all around, leaving a 3 or 4 inch gap in the middle of the top edge for turning and backstitching at beginning and end. Snip the corners and clip the curves. Turn it and press, turning under the unsewn seam. Edgestitch all the way around. Now you have a lovely finished, but disembodied, bag flap.


6) Lay the flap down right side up on the right side of the body piece (same end as where your pocket is), centered side to side and about 1.5 inches from the top edge. Edgestitch following your previous stitches, then stitch again about a quarter inch from the edge, reinforcing at each end.


7) The Body. Fold the body piece in half, right sides together, so you have a 14 x 12.5 inch rectangle, with the flap tucked inside and out of the way. Pin and sew up both sides.

Finger press or press the bag flat so you have a line that goes down the center of the bottom of the bag. It's just a guideline. You are going to square the corners so your bag has a flat bottom. Heh. Pick it up, bring the side seams together at the top and lay it back down with a corner pulled out and flattened so it looks like a triangle (see drawing below), with the side seam going down the middle of the triangle and lined up with the guideline you pressed in the center of the bottom of the bag. Pin it to keep all that in place and use a ruler to draw an air soluble line at 3 inches across the width, then sew it securely. Repeat that to square the other corner. You can trim off the excess corner or fold it under and tack it to add body to the bottom of the bag.

Now repeat this step with your lining piece, folding it, sewing it, and squaring the corners.


8) Now is the time to test the strap length. Turn the body right side out with the flap in place. Pin the strap in place on both sides of the bag, centered with the side seams, and with a 3/4 inch overlap. Sling it over your shoulder diagonally across your body. Sashay to a mirror and make any adjustments in strap length so the bag falls in a comfortable place on your opposite hip. Unpin and trim your strap to the new length, being sure to include the 3/4 inch overlap. Now baste your strap on the right side of the body upside down, centered with the side seams, and with the ends sticking out over the top 1/4 inch. (Make sure the strap is not twisted! Because that would be really embarrassing later. Ahem.)


9) Now you need to put the body and the lining right sides together. So turn the lining right side in, and then stuff the body inside that one so that their right sides are facing each other. I like my inside pocket to be on the same side of the bag as the outside pocket, but that is just me. The flap and strap will be stuffed down in between the two layers, so just tuck them in and smooth them down the inside so they stay out of the way of the stitching. Pin the body and lining together at the top, lining up the side seams and the raw edges. The strap ends will be sticking up out of both sides.


10) Sew the body and lining together, reinforcing over the straps, and leaving about 4 or 5 inches open in the center of the flap side for turning. Make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end really well. Turning this stiff fabric puts a lot of stress on your backstitches. Turn your creation and then stuff the lining down inside the bag. Wow. Now it looks like a real bag!


11) Press the seam around the top, rolling it between your fingers to get it as close to the stitching as you can. Press under the seam allowance on the opening. Edgestitch all the way around the top of the bag (don't catch the flap in your stitches. Ahem.). You'll probably need to press the rest of the bag too, because after wrestling it through the hole it tends to look crumpled all over.

Shazam! You are done. Look at that fabulous bag you just made. Bravo!

Jamie's leaf bag

Wow. I even ironed this. Wrinkly linen.

Another bag similar to Chelsea's and my paisley one, from that same simple messenger bag pattern. This one was for Jamie, the other lovely niece in my life who, along with Chelsea, has passed through two important rites of passage lately:
a) turning 18
b) graduating from high school

tall girl = long strap

I had a hugely difficult time in nailing down the design for the flap. It really makes me sweat bullets to make something handmade for the younger generation. I'm so not cool, but I want my gifts to be. Of course with the requisite added pressure of just a few evening hours in which to design/make it as well as pack for the trip. You should see the pile of sketches. I was so inspired by Orla Kiely's signature leaf thingies and ended up with a variation on that theme.

And I spent a lot of time I didn't have sitting in the floor of my craft room wearing a slightly crazed look and surrounded by piles of fabric, willing my brain to produce the perfect color combination from the existing stash.

Body of the bag is brown linen, lining is green cotton. Leaf appliques are cotton and linen backed with Heat N Bond Lite and zig zagged.

I'm very pleased with how it came out, and Jamie was sweet enough to even use it a couple of times when I was there. I love those two girls.

make a flower card for mom

Nothing says Happy Mother's Day like a flower, right? That's what I'm going with anyway. I guess I just love flowers. If you'd like to make a similar card for your mom, download the flower template here.


Here's what you do:

Cut an 8.5 x 11 piece of cardstock in half so you have two 8.5 x 5.5 in. pieces. Score and fold each piece in half and you now have two 4.25 x 5.5 in. blank cards ready for flowers. This size card fits in a standard invitation sized envelope, available at your local office supply or humongous-everything-store. I get mine at Target or Wal-mart.

Cut a piece of grosgrain ribbon for the stem and glue it down to the center of the card, putting the top end behind where the flower will be, and letting the bottom end hang off for trimming.

Before the glue dries, cut two leaves out of fabric or paper. Glue them on, tucking the ends under the ribbon. After the glue dries, trim the ribbon flush with the edge of the card.


Use the template to cut out flowers from fabric or paper or both. Any colorful combo works. Use a one-inch flower or starburst punch to make the middle piece. Add a button on top and maybe some sequins for sparkle.

You can skip the card part and just make mom a brooch from a fabric or felt flower, gluing two leaves behind the flower and adding a safety pin or a brooch fastener.

Send it to a mom you know and brighten their day. See y'all next week.

P.S. In a transparent bid to win some of my favorite fabric, 2D Zoo in Pool, I'm including a link to a great fabric (and pattern) giveaway by Candice at Daffodil Hill Too. Be sure to enter by May 12. She has a sweet fabric shop on etsy too, if you are interested in beefing up your stash.