in which I sew a large number of woven tanks (or, Grainline vs Wiksten)

The Holland Academy for Young Ladies is on summer break and I've been attempting to sew myself some clothes. To keep my spirits up I've been trying to make it all about The Process. Well, you can't wear The Process under a cute cardigan. So I guess I'm really all about Results. I'm happy to say my woven tanks have been a success!

I purchased the Tiny Pocket Tank pattern from Grainline and made a few, and then became curious about how the fit compared to the Wiksten Tank pattern. After staring at a lot (no, A LOT) of samples of both tanks online I decided just to purchase the Wiksten pattern and try it too. You can never have too many layering pieces, in my opinion.

Well, I love them both! Here's a quick comparison for you if you are wondering what's the difference:

L) Tiny Pocket Tank, R) Wiksten Tank Top (Ignore that seam down the back of the tank on the left -- I ran out of fabric!)

Overview:

Both patterns produce nicely finished, airy, woven tank tops with deep scoop necklines, optional  chest pockets and curved hemlines. There are no closures required for either pattern, both styles slip on over your head. Yay!

Both have clear written instructions that are just right for a person who knows basic sewing techniques and terms. Both patterns come in the form of downloadable PDFs and the pattern pieces are tiled to letter sized pages and taped together at the guidelines.

If you want great results from either pattern, I don't recommend using quilting cotton. I did my trial runs in cotton, since I have so much on hand in my stash. Mid-weight cotton does make a nice looking woven tank, but the drape won't be the bestest. My favorites so far to use for these tanks: double gauze, lawn, chambray and linen blend. I haven't tried rayon, silk or similar, but I'm sure those would be wonderful.

Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank:

Grainline Tiny Pocket Tanks
(from L to R: cotton, chambray, cotton, double gauze)

Grainline's pattern (sizes 0-18) features darts in the front bodice and a handy technique to achieve smooth and professional looking bias-bound necklines and armholes (which is also featured as a tutorial on her blog). There are plenty of line drawings to illustrate the steps. There is also a tutorial on her blog to extend the tank into a dress.

 Darts in the Grainline bodice make for a nice curve around the bust.

Wiksten Tank Top:

Wiksten Tank Tops
(From L to R, linen blend, lawn, double gauze) 

Wiksten's pattern (sizes XS-XL) features french seams (ooh la la!), which means no raw edges will be visible on the inside of the tank - a nice touch in an otherwise basic garment. It includes a dress length option within the pattern. There are plenty of photographs and sketches to illustrate the steps.

 No raw edges on the inside of the Wiksten tank, very nice.

My Process:

Keepin' it real for your reference. I am 5 feet 6 inches tall, 135 lbs DSGV*, with broad, straight shoulders, average size bust, and a lamentably short torso, so I knew ahead of time I'd have to make adjustments in the patterns. I really think a couple of inches were taken from my spine and added to my toes on accident. I usually have to make a few mods to any purchased pattern, so that is no reflection on the quality of these patterns. I used my bust measurement to choose the pattern size and both worked out fine.
*Doctor's Scale Gravitational Vortex

Grainline dry run, size 8: I sewed the dry run in mid-weight cotton fabric I found at the bottom of my stash, not the ideal material, but OK for a test. Overall the fit was size appropriate but pulled a bit across my chest. Because of my short torso and chest, the length was too long and the front scoop neckline was way too hubba hubba (though my husband gave it the thumbs up). Because of my straight shoulders, the back neckline stood away from my back a bit.

Grainline wearable muslin: it shrunk a bit after laundering, but you get the idea.

Grainline Mods: 

• Raised neckline in front a LOT (1.5 inches)
• Lowered the neckline in back
• Shortened the torso overall
• Reduced angle of darts a bit and added a bit more room under the armscye
• Made angle of the shoulder seam more shallow to compensate for my straight shoulders
• Took a wedge off the back fold line to keep the neck from standing off my back (Got that idea here. Thanks, Rae!) 
• In addition to the instructions, I added stay stitching to the neck and armholes so I could try it on without fear of pulling it out of shape before I added the bias binding. 

Wiksten wearable muslin, still some tweaking to do.

Wiksten dry run, size M: Fabric look familiar? I made a quickie true muslin, then adjusted some things and made a second try. I still had some cotton left from the duvet cover I thrifted years ago, so I used that for the wearable test run. Overall the fit was size appropriate, and I went ahead and raised the neckline an inch even before the muslin because I knew it would be too low. I had the same fit issues as with the Grainline tank: overall length a bit too long, and the back neckline standing away from my neck.

Wiksten Mods: 
I did the same mods as with the Grainline tank above, with these small additions:

• In addition to the Wiksten instructions, I used the same Grainline method to grade, notch and understitch the neck and armholes.
• I really dislike turning up a large hem on a curve, so I trimmed off some of the hem allowance and sewed a narrow hem instead.

Let me tell you, seeing the same armhole go by four different times under your needle (1-stay stitch, 2-attach the bias, {then clip the allowance} 3-understitch, 4-stitch bias down) can be a little frustrating and seems like overkill at the time, but it is very worth the effort. The result is a flat, smooth finish that doesn't loudly proclaim 'homemade'. If you've ever been frustrated by a bias bound neck or armscye that stands straight out from your body, then you should try this method.

My Results:

So I took about one thousand pictures of myself to model my new tanks, while my family looked on and mocked me (and I felt increasingly ridiculous). What to do with my hands? Should I look away? Gaaaah the timer is almost up! *click* Do over. I have a newfound respect for those who do this on a regular basis. I really need to buy a tripod and a remote. These were taken on my back screened porch, and it was humid, so please forgive the hair.

On the left is how the tank looks by itself, on the right is how I'll most likely wear it. I love me some cardigans. The parade of woven tanks:

I've laundered this one and I notice the pulling is back under the arms. No matter, I'll be wearing it as a layering piece mostly. I might go up a size on future Grainlines and see if that helps.

Bought this cotton ever so long ago and I'm so glad to have used it. I've actually made two of these, but the first one wasn't lined and the white fabric was too transparent. I remade it with a featherweight cotton lining. Much nicer! This is the only one that I added a pocket to, just because it needed more gray/black right there. The teeny pocket is so cute.

My first try with double gauze! I fell in love with this Fuccra when I saw it a while back, and hoarded it in my stash. I only had a meter so I had to put a seam in the back to make it work. Double gauze has a nice drape and a casual, crinkly look, but it can fray and stretch while you work with it. Stay stitching was a great idea. I bound the neck and armholes with a sturdier cotton to give it some body.

First time sewing with Liberty lawn! This is one of my favorite prints, Wiltshire. The fabric came out of the dryer practically wrinkle free with hardly any raveling, and took only a second to press. A joy to cut. Very easy to work with, but be sure to use a small needle. The lawn makes a more billowy looking tank. I might try a size down if I make another one in lawn.

The. Dreamiest. Fabric. Kaufman Essex linen blend. The yardage felt a bit heavy so I was hesitant about making it a top, but it has such a floppy drape it worked out great. I can tell this tank is going to be a wardrobe staple. Love the nubbly finish of the fabric. Wow. I need a haircut.

More Nani IRO double gauze. Love the colors of this one, such a fun print! I have more double gauze and I'm excited to make something else with it. Kind of a goofy expression for that last one!

I've actually sewn a couple more, but you get the idea. I'm going to love having so many options for layering. Not having a standard body shape can make sewing for yourself a trial, but I'm going to take what I've learned about alterations for my body type and go forward with more confidence. Now on to conquer more patterns...

I made clafoutis

I came into the kitchen this afternoon in a frowning funk over my less than successful sewing attempts. More on that later.

I realized four things:
1) I've never eaten clafoutis.
2) I don't know how to say clafoutis. Clah-FOOH-tee? Foux du fafa.
3) I happened to have all the ingredients handy, according to the recipe in my Joy Of Cooking* (except for the cognac).
4) I needed a Win and it might as well be a high-calorie, sweet, custardy Win.

Aren't those pretty eggs? My friend Tracy keeps chickens and I love the variety of colors and shapes the eggs come in. One day I'll be cool like Tracy.

*The gift that just keeps on giving, Robyn. My most useful cookbook by far.

 I also realized I could use a cherry pitter. My thumbnail is sore from prying out a million and a half cherry pits.

The finished product right from the oven (Win), before a coating of powdered sugar. The smell in the kitchen was a big payoff too.

Now, like any good southern girl I've made and put away a lot of fruit cobblers, but this is a different animal because of the eggs. Just as simple to make, but it's less like a gushy cake and more like a firm custard with cherries. I recommend eating it warm (with maybe a little extra sugar and some heavy cream splashed on if your sewing project is not going well). Remind me to give you my easiest fruit cobbler recipe ever sometime.

handmade gifts from my sister

My sister Leigh loves to make handmade gifts as much as I like receiving them. So we are a great combo.

She just gifted me with these little chalkboard labels she made with balsa wood and chalkboard paint. It's a clever idea. They have clothespins attached to the backs so they are great for clipping to dishes at potlucks. Now I can easily let folks know what they are dipping into with helpful labels like:

"Nut free"

"So not a low fat food"

"It tastes better than it looks"

"Eat this so I don't have to take it home."

And because she loves me, she also gave me this fabulous spa eye pillow she made from organic hemp silk, filled with organic golden flax seeds. Fancy! She made them to sell at a local shop. It feels so nicely weighty and cool on my eyes. You can chill the pillow in the fridge or freezer to help with puffy eyes (I call this Netflix Eye) or warmed up to help with sinus pressure. I also deal with constant eye irritation from blepharitis, so this is a nice thing to have handy!

Thank you, Leigh Ann! When are you starting your blog?

pattern review for the Flora Needle Book

Image courtesy of Stephanie, Peas in a Pod

Wondrous pattern tester and maker extraordinaire, Stephanie, has published a pattern review of my new Flora Needle Book pattern on her blog, Peas in a Pod. Isn't her needle book pretty? And she sewed it while sick with pneumonia, y'all. She can craft with one hand behind her back! More photos and a thorough rundown of the pattern are here.

small parcel

All wrapped up and ready to fly to its new home.

Proof that good things come in small packages.

Do you like that embossed stamp? I love it. It was given to me a few years ago by my big sister Leigh, who knows how I love to victimize people with handmade gifts. It's a nice way to warn them up front not to say anything mean about it when they open it. Ha ha. Which reminds me of these awesome tags.

(It is a Martha Stewart embosser, but they no longer offer it as far as I can tell. However there are other rubber stamp makers that provide custom round embossers like mine, so it might be easy to order a similar substitute.)

my new Benzie Design wool felt color collection and giveaway winners

Image courtesy of Renae Bradley, Benzie Design

I once again have the pleasure of curating a guest collection of delicious wool felt colors at Benzie Design, this time to celebrate the debut of the Flora Needle Book pattern! The wools look so pretty all in a row, don't they? Go here to view the collection in her shop.

This collection is inspired by the colors that I used in the first needle book I made. It's also a versatile starter set to have, which features a modern palette. Here's a recent book I made in the same colors as that first book, only with the new pattern:

Once you try working with wool and wool blend felts, you may never go back to acrylic craft felts. Wool felts come in such a wider array of lovely colors (for instance, Benzie Design offers 80 different wool blend colors) and the texture and durability are exponentially better than acrylic. Not to mention you can actually iron wool felt and it won't melt.

Acrylic felt has its place in crafting, don't get me wrong. I've used it plenty of times for kids crafts or decorations. Can't beat the price. But for small, detailed work, a nice handmade gift, an heirloom doll, or any project that takes an investment of time or materials, you should step up to wool.

Image courtesy of Renae Bradley, Benzie Design

Ooh. A closeup of the collection. Good enough to eat!

And you could certainly mix and match this collection in different ways than I did. I can envision a maroon needle book with orange, blue and pink applique and pink pages. A blue book with maroon, yellow and orange applique and yellow pages. A green book with blue, yellow and soft green applique and yellow pages. All kinds of color combos in there. *eyes getting dreamy far away look*

*snapping back to blog* A great thing about making the needle books is they use relatively small amounts of felt, so you could get several books made out of one bundle of felt. This is why I keep a coke crate filled with tiny wool felt scraps. Even the smallest pieces are potential floral appliques.

OK! On to the needle book and pattern giveaway winners! The Grand Prize Winner (grand prize being the choice of one of four needle books made by me) goes to: (rustling fancy envelope)

Darcy of Modern Cozy! Congratulations, Darcy. I'll get it in the mail to you soon. BTW, loving that orange and blue mini quilt in your cupboard.

And, the winners of the two free Flora Needle Book patterns are... (fumbling envelope and microphone, laughing apologetically at co-announcer Aidan Turner. Wow, he looks dreamy in a tux, doesn't he?)

Nanou! (Bonjour, Nanou, can you contact me with your email address?)

aaaaand

Little Ella Lu! You have some pretty cute puddle jumpers there!

Thank you to everyone for your participation and for all the kind words posted about the pattern and the needle books!

Flora Needle Book pattern is in the shop! (And a giveaway to celebrate.)

At last, the Flora Needle Book pattern is finished and available as an instant download from both of my shops: Etsy and Craftsy. I hope you enjoy it!

The twelve-page pattern shows you how to easily make these wool felt needle books which feature:

• Colorful floral applique
• Hand embroidery
• Button/string closure
• Grosgrain ribbon spine
• Four felt pages to organize needles and pins
• Handy hanging loop
• Light coating of stiffener to give it a more body and durability

My technique combines both hand and machine sewing so the books come together with as little fuss as possible. I'm all about getting it done. I've made a large number of these needle books so I've included all my tips and tricks to make construction uh-oh free. See Etsy or Craftsy for more details and a materials list.

I'd like to thank my lovely and generous pattern testers, Marissa, Nancy and Stephanie for their timely and thorough work. They were a joy to collaborate with! Marissa and Stephanie plan to publish a pattern review soon, so I'll be posting those links for you when they are available. I won't steal their thunder now by showing their beautiful needle books!

There were so many who wanted to purchase a Flora Needle Book over the past few years, but so few hours in the day for me to make them. This pattern was the perfect solution. Plus it meant I got to draw a bunch of awesome diagrams. Y'all know how I love me some diagrams.

And they are so satisfying to make. I really love putting the rich hues of wool felt together, and then adding the contrasting colors of the embroidery, which gives it so much pop. And of course the small scale just adds to the charm. You know how I feel about little things. You can view an inspiration gallery of needle book color combinations I've used in this Flickr set.

Soooo to celebrate properly, I thought I'd give away a handmade needle book. How does that sound? Winner's choice of one of the four final samples I made for the pattern:

 This golden yellow number if you love warm fall hues. I surely do. It makes me feel all cozy.

 Look familiar? This color scheme is from the first needle book I made which has been pinned ever so many times.

 Turquoise and orange always make me feel happy. That button is from the vintage button jar at Stitch Lab in Austin. I miss that button jar. I stayed elbow deep in that thing for about thirty minutes.

This is one of my favorite color combos. I love the way the yellows, greens and blues pop on this charcoal gray felt.

* Thanks for participating! Comments for the giveaway are closed. *

Did you make your choice? If you live in North America, all you need to do for a chance to win is leave a comment on this post and make sure you have some contact information in your profile. I'll pick the winner by random number generator on Tuesday, June 18. My apologies to those who live on other continents! The shipping is just too dear and the reliability can be shaky. (I'm still trying to locate a doll that was lost in France.)

And I'll also choose two winners to receive the Flora Needle Book pattern. Of course, shipping is no issue there so that's open to everyone! Good luck to you.

in the final stages

I had a chest x-ray the other day to confirm that I had indeed coughed up one of my lungs. It's curious, but they are both still there.

Anyhoo, the needle book pattern is finished and is now in the hands of my lovely, generous and good-looking pattern testers. Thank you, ladies! After giving the pattern a test run and any needed tweaks, I'm shooting to have it in the shop by mid-June.

Testing is always a great idea with new patterns, even though I've made so many on my own I feel I can do it with my eyes closed. Translating what you know into clear instructions for others to follow is a whole other ball game. There's an intriguing article on the importance of pattern testing over here at While She Naps, especially as relates to the craft book publishing game. I really appreciate the the matter of fact articles Abby writes on issues that effect professional makers, and all the relevant comments and discussion that they draw. I know from experience that errors are not always caught before press time, despite the efforts of the editors. Actually, most craft books have a web page that lists errata. It's always a great idea to check before you start a book project. That's what makes the PDF format so appealing to me - if I do happen to notice a mistake or omission it is an easy matter to amend the file and get it out there.